Bring Back the Sweet Taste of Summer Vacation — How to Buy and Cook Maine Lobster at Home

Published
by
admin
on January 10, 2010
in Uncategorized
. 0 Comments

The mind tricks the senses, and in no case is that truer than with expensive food, such as lobster.  If it’s expensive, it’s got to be good, right? 

As a New Yorker who spends a lot of time in Maine, I’ve stopped eating lobster in city restaurants, even on an expense account.  It’s tasteless.  A $42 price tag and plating by an acclaimed chef can’t trick my taste buds anymore. 

But my partner and I still wanted to celebrate New Year’s Eve in the city with a lobster dinner.  It was an easy decision to cook at home.  However, where would we get the lobster?  We decided to repeat our 2009 lobster taste test, comparing Maine lobster shipped from Mount Desert Island vs. bought locally.  

This year it would be a blind taste test. 

First, I ordered two lobsters from Beal’s Lobster Pier, a year-round working fish and lobster wharf in Southwest Harbor, Maine.  Lobsters are “right off the boat” and shipped nationwide, year-round.  Although the lobsters were only $8.50 per pound, the shipping drove the bill up to a hefty $91.75.  

Then, I went to Fairway on the Upper West Side of Manhattan – a market widely acclaimed for its fresh produce and rapid turnover - and bought the same size lobster for $9.99 per pound. 

For cooking we followed the advice of Brooke Dojny in her beautifully illustrated book Cooking Up Maine.  After putting the lobsters in the freezer for 15 minutes to numb them, we set them into a large enamel canning pot to steam for about 17 minutes. 

As they steamed, I began to wonder: Would I really be able to taste a difference?  They were both Maine lobsters and “live,” after all.  Maybe the knowledge of “which was which” had influenced my perception in the past, just as price can. 

Beal’s used blue bands to restrain the claws of their lobsters; Fairway, red – so there would be no mistakes as to origin in our evaluation.  Eyes tightly shut, I tasted sample one slowly.  But as soon as I bit into sample two – the taste briny and sweet, the texture less chewy – I immediately said, “That’s Maine.” 

Would my partner agree?  I’d have to defer.  After all, he’d commenced craving these crustaceans almost fifty years ago at Lundy’s, the much-missed venerable seafood institution in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn.  His decision was also firm and made the taste test unanimous.  

Lobster shipped directly from Maine was markedly better. 

Why?  I called the Lobster Council of Maine and spoke with their Executive Director Dane Somers, “Everyone thinks that if it’s alive, you can’t get any fresher than that.  But there is a subtle difference.  It’s like fresh-cut flowers.  One-day-old flowers are not as fresh as those cut this morning.”  He continued, “There is no substitute for the ocean in which Maine lobsters live.  Tank water simply cannot replicate this pristine environment.”  I hadn’t really thought about it, but if lobsters are in transit or in the tank for two or three days, they have not been fed and are obviously under stress.  

We all know about grass-fed beef and free-range chicken, but I’d never considered what lobsters eat and the degree to which that affects their flavor.  Somers explained to me, “The waters around where you ordered your lobsters are rich with sea life — and a perfect feeding ground for lobsters.  They eat clams, oysters, and love scallops when they find them.  You are what you eat – and that’s why that part of Maine near Southwest Harbor produces some of the best-tasting lobster anywhere.”

Yes, the lobster shipped directly from Maine was substantially better, but was it worth the steep increment?  The lobster itself was $32 for two of them, but the packaging and shipping added sixty dollars.  Ouch! 

I think it’s fair to compare the higher price of  “fresh from the boat” lobster to that of better-tasting organic food.  My personal rationale for this luxury is that I also like supporting the local Maine economy, and especially the fishermen.  For others, it may only make sense to ship directly from Maine when there’s a large enough order, say, for a dinner party, to amortize the shipping cost.

New Year’s Day we celebrated with a lunch of  the third lobster, lightly tossing the chunks of lobster meat with mayonnaise and a little lemon and piling them on a toasted Brioche roll.  We had some delicious cold asparagus – from Fairway! – and drank the rest of the champagne from New Year’s Eve.  We watched a couple re-runs of  The Honeymooners, silently acknowledging Jackie Gleason for summarizing how we felt about the lobster, our health, and happiness: 

How sweet it is!

 Lynn Fantom publishes OUR ACADIA, which helps visitors make the most of their vacations to Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island.  She provides tips about guides, excursions, restaurants, and lodging.  You’ll also find insights about the best time to visit and 22 great things to do with kids in Acadia National Park.

Top Ten Things to Do on a Visit to Acadia National Park in Maine

Published
by
admin
on September 27, 2009
in Uncategorized
. 0 Comments

Ken Burns’ new series “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea” may have piqued your interest about Acadia, the easternmost park in the system.  It’s where the mountains meet the sea, and a desire to “do everything” co-exists happily with a sense of calm contemplation. 

 

Acadia National Park is about third hours north of Portland, in relatively easy proximity to the metropolitan areas along the eastern seaboard.  It occupies about two-thirds of Mount Desert Island, the most well-known town of which is Bar Harbor.  The village where I live was founded in 1761.  Acadia’s boundaries are intermingled with the communities of this New England island. This adds considerably to the charm that captivates park visitors.

 

Here are some favorite things to do both in and around the park.

 

  1. Watch the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain.   At some 1500 feet, it is the first place from which to witness dawn in the United States, and it is breathtaking.  Make sure you wear a warm fleece even if it’s August.
  2. Drive the Park Loop Road.  You can get your best overview of Acadia by driving these 27 miles of unsurpassed beauty, created in part through the masterful collaboration of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr.  There are many lookouts so have your camera ready for this drive.
  3. Eat lobster.  Whether you want a lobster roll, lobster stew, or a two-pounder steamed, you can find a wide range of topnotch restaurants, harbor-side lobster pounds, and quaint cafes to serve you.  Our favorite is Thurston’s in Bass Harbor.
  4. Go biking.  Thanks to John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Acadia offers 57 miles of car-free carriage roads for cycling.  There is plenty of parking at Hull’s Cove Visitor Center.  Or, if you prefer, you can take a horse-drawn carriage drive from Wildwood Stables and see the park the way Mr. Rockefeller intended.
  5. Stroll, hike, or climb.  The park boasts 130 miles of well-maintained hiking trails that appeal to all levels of fitness.  The most exciting trails, such as the Precipice and Jordan Cliffs, feature rungs and ladders.  A beautiful moderately challenging hike is Acadia Mountain, overlooking Somes Sound, the only fiord in North America.  If you’re looking for easier strolls, consider Asticou Trail and Wonderland – they’re lovely.
  6. Have lemonade at Jordan Pond House.  Select a biking or hiking route that stems from behind Jordan Pond House so that you can conclude your afternoon with lemonade and popovers on the lawn looking towards the Bubbles, a sight that has mesmerized visitors at teatime since 1896.  It’s a favorite destination for everyone, but worth the wait.
  7. Visit Sand Beach.  This sandy crescent has cliffs at each side and the Beehive Trail behind it.  The views won’t disappoint, even if the chilly water does.  Another option for a swim is the beach at Echo Lake on the island’s “Quietside.”
  8. Touch nature – literally.  There are several enterprises, including Mount Desert Biological Laboratories, The Dive-In Theatre, and the Mount Desert Oceanarium, that feature touch tanks full of lobsters, crabs, and sea cucumbers. I always end up liking this stuff just as much as the kids do.
  9. Learn from a park ranger.  The National Park Service offers very entertaining talks and walks on subjects ranging tidal pools to birds of prey to the stars over Sand Beach.  Scan The Beaver Log to figure out how you can fit in more than one.
  10. Get out on the water.  This great national park is on an island so you must see it from the vantage point of the sea.  Whether you’re powering yourself in a sea kayak or the wind is propelling you forward on a Downeast Friendship Sloop or the Margaret Todd, being on the water is a special part of a trip to Acadia National Park. 

Evenings will keep you on the run as well as you explore Mount Desert Island’s restaurant scene.  Many specialize in seafood and locally grown produce, but you’ll also find French bistro, authentic Mexican, tapas, and Cuban cuisine.  And what if it rains?  There are local breweries, bookstores, antique shops, movies, repertory companies, museums, and fashion purveyors that are sure to keep you entertained.  In fact, after a few days of hiking, biking, and kayaking, you might hope for a slight drizzle and an afternoon in the rocking chair of a local Maine library.

 

For specific recommendations and contact information for guides, tours, restaurants, and inns, visit OUR ACADIA – a perfect practical companion for a visit to Acadia National Park. You can find special tips for when to visit, what to do on a rainy day, and how to pack.  It also features tips for fall trips and sample itineraries.

How a National Park Turned Me into a Compulsive Blogger

Published
by
admin
on September 27, 2009
in Uncategorized
. 0 Comments

Many people have stories about their trips to our national parks.  Now, in conjunction with the Ken Burns’ series, The National Parks: America’s Best Idea, PBS has given us another outlet for telling them. Here’s mine.

 

My first encounter with Acadia National Park in Maine was on a carriage-driving trip.  A New York City executive, I was in the midst of a divorce, when my sister, an independent-minded horsewoman from New Hampshire, invited me to join her and some other women in Maine. They loaded their carriages and horses into trailers and a bag or two into their pick-up trucks, and off we went.

 

John D. Rockefeller, Jr. would have applauded such an introduction to Acadia.  Between 1913 and 1940 he developed a system of roads and bridges that traversed meadows and brooks and encircled mountains.  It was his vision that Acadia National Park should be seen behind a horse.  Today, the 57 miles of carriage roads he constructed are used by cyclists and hikers, as well as carriage drivers.

 

While the New Hampshire ladies drove their carriages and groomed their ponies, I hiked around Jordan Pond.  We convened to have lemonade and popovers on a lawn that has hosted tea for visitors since 1896.  In the evenings we dined together at our host’s cottage on Southwest Harbor and congregated at the best local lobster pounds.

 

Here I found the unique place where the mountains meet the sea.

 

Acadia National Park, located on Mount Desert Island, has 24 mountains, the highest mountain on the eastern seaboard, the only fiord in North America, glacial lakes, boreal forests, and 130 miles of hiking trails to see all of it.

 

I was smitten.  It was time to go home, but an irrational passion for the place had overtaken me.

 

George Dorr first went to Mount Desert Island in 1868.  Educated in Europe, he traveled extensively there, but chose to reside on Mount Desert Island.  Although he had inherited an extraordinary fortune, he spent his time hiking, biking, swimming and building trails. When he died at age 94, he had spent his entire fortune purchasing land for Acadia National Park. 

 

When I got back into my NYC routine, I still wanted to talk about the peregrines nesting on the Precipice.  People at work wanted to talk about Alex Rodriguez.  I was thinking about hiking the Western Mountains vs. Penobscot Mountain.  They were thinking about Gossip Girl vs. NYC Prep.

 

So, I started blogging.  When is the best time to visit Acadia National Park? Where should you go sea kayaking?  Which hikes are best for kids?  I pulled it together in a Web site about OUR ACADIA – our national park on one of the world’s most beautiful islands.

 

This is the power of the places that have been preserved by the National Park System. 

 

Yet even within this exclusive set, Acadia National Park is unique because it is the only national park in which most of the land was privately purchased and then donated to a land trust that became the park.  That, in particular, tells the story of how Mount Desert Island has captivated people, who then preserved it as a national park for us all. 

 

I need to pay bills.  There’s a report I should look at.  My daughter needs me to help her with her new laptop.  And I’m thinking that my next post will be about LEAVE NO TRACE and other tips for hiking in Acadia National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

Kids Love Diver Ed’s Bar Harbor Cruise — A Great Alternative to a Whale Watch

Published
by
admin
on August 23, 2009
in Uncategorized and travel
. 0 Comments

Check out the posts on TripAdvisor about whale watching, and you’ll find a lot of negatives – no whales, long trips, cold weather, and sea sickness.  Still want to take your kids on a boat ride when you visit Acadia National Park?  The Dive-In Theater gets rave reviews.

 

This five-star cruise leaves from a pier at College of the Atlantic in Bar Harbor on the aptly christened Starfish Enterprise.  Last week we embarked upon our two-hour trip into Frenchman Bay, a body of water so deep and cold that it provides a rich habitat for an array of sea life.  The bay is spotted with small islands, which further enrich the environment. 

 

Suddenly the boat began to circle a small rock outcropping and there on the top sat a large bald eagle.  Lying on rocks below and swimming in the area were about twenty harbor seals.  Minutes of leaving this sighting, we spotted harbor porpoises gracefully creating arcs in the water. 

 

But this was only the beginning of the show. 

 

We moored at a dive site and Diver Ed suited up with considerable fanfare.  Fanfare isn’t really the right word.  It’s more shtick.  (Clearly, only his love of Maine and kids has kept Ed from stand-up.)   

 

With a little help from his friends, Diver Ed took the plunge with a collection bag, real-time video and sound equipment, and Mini Ed, his action figure alter ego, who would provide scale for the adventures on the ocean floor.  We then learned that this was Mini Ed #104.  (The prior 103 had been unsuccessful in their battles with lobsters and crabs from the deep.) 

 

Sitting comfortably on our benches, we watched on a large projection screen as Mini Ed began to explore.  I glanced away only occasionally to see such sights as the Margaret Todd sailing by.

What happened when Diver Ed returned with critters in tow?   We touched them, of course. 

Whether a beautiful sea star (starfish to the uninitiated), slimy sea cucumber, or angry lobster, these creatures of Frenchman Bay were taken into temporary (and protective) custody in touch tanks, as we learned more.  Did you know that sea stars can not only regenerate lost arms, but themselves be regenerated from a single arm?

We gently probed their varied surfaces.  (I will not say the same for the four-year-olds who thrilled to the chaos of the touch tanks and, inhibition abandoned, initiated some aggressive dive-bombing with the lobsters.)

Most of the families on the cruise seemed to have four-year-olds in tow, but the three eighteen-year-olds who came with me were pretty enthusiastic.  But I surpassed them all. 

For more information, visit www.divered.com.

Maine Locals Share Tips to Help You Get the Most Out of Your Vacation to Acadia National Park

Published
by
admin
on July 19, 2009
in Uncategorized and travel
. 0 Comments

Where the locals eat, shop, and relax is a constant source of fascination for travelers.  And why not?  What could be a better guide for where to get off the beaten track to find value? 

That’s why I was delighted recently to see the proprietor of Sip’s and Sawyer’s Specialties in Southwest Harbor eating dinner at the bar of Red Sky.  Red Sky, with its creative cuisine and emphasis on local ingredients, has always been a personal favorite.  I felt validated by the local endorsement. 

Interesting enough, earlier that day I had visited Sawyer’s Specialties to ask Scott Winchester if he’d be willing to share some “insider secrets” about Mount Desert Island.  Here’s what he and two other Southwest Harbor locals-in-the-know told me. 

Scott Winchester
Scott Winchester

As I chatted with Scott, I eyed the delicacies in the counter at Sawyer’s Specialties.  There were “banana shooters” stuffed with provolone and prosciutto, smoked shrimp and scallops, and roasted red peppers.  He told me Sawyer’s Specialties features over 100 cheeses.  What a picnic!  All of a sudden I saw an intriguing alternative to my turkey sandwiches atop Pemetic Mountain.  My Nalgene of water morphed into a bottle of Pinot Noir as Scott talked about his philosophy: “I like to find out what customers like and then introduce them to something new in the genre they enjoy.”  So, what site would I choose for my elegant picnic?  

Scott’s Tip:  Go to Wonderland, the trail at the southern point of Mount Desert Island’s “Quietside.”  A spruce-scented gravel path, 1.4 miles out and back, leads you to the ocean where Maine’s rocky coastline offers ample seating – as well as tabletops – for you to relax and enjoy your feast from Sawyer’s Specialties.  Breathe in the salt air to complement the bouquet of the wine you’ve chosen.  Scott talked about the “stone chairs” at Wonderland.  Find the most regal for this feast.

Don Jalbert
Don Jalbert

When I was looking for a house to buy on Mount Desert Island, I stayed at the Harbour Cottage Inn.  I still think it has one of the most appealing living rooms I’ve seen anywhere.  On my most recent visit, while I was waiting for one of the innkeepers, Don Jalbert, I mused how nice it would be to curl up on the chintz sofa  in front of the fireplace with a volume from the well-stocked bookshelves.  Instead, I maintained my decorum and enjoyed the lovely Southwest Harbor view over their rolling lawn.  When Don arrived, my first question was whether or not they were still serving their pesto eggs for breakfast, my all-time favorite egg preparation.  Having answered me in the affirmative, he surprised me with a recommendation I fully intend to pursue for myself. 

Don’s Tip:  “Not many people know about this,” he said, “Somehow it is kept very quiet. If you are on the island in June, July and August, be sure to call for a ticket to see The Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Garden. It sits atop a bluff in the village of Seal Harbor.” The garden has both a Spirit Path and English-style flowers so it is an unusual blend of Western and Eastern elements. Reservations are required and available from 9 AM to 11 AM Thursdays only. Tickets are free, but reservations are limited so you must call well in advance: 207-267-5525.  

Heather Brown
Heather Brown

If there’s a rainy day during my vacation to Acadia, I love buying baby gifts at Hatched on MDI.  For friends who have become entranced with Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket, I always buy little cotton sweaters emblazoned with lobsters, which I then bestow with a lecture on why I like Mount Desert Island much better.  This year the owner, Northeast Harbor born-and-bred Heather Brown, attracted my attention with a table of marked-down “values” outside the shop.  I felt apologetic as she rung up the $10 item that my daughter had chosen strictly because of its incomparable snuggliness.  

Heather’s Tip:  I asked Heather for a suggestion for a thoughtful gift to bring home to a little one after a trip to Acadia.  She showed me a biblet (that covers not only the baby’s chest, but lap) in blue with a fiery-red lobster.  As we were talking, another great tip emerged.  If you (or your spouse) need a break from perusing the local gift shops, the Southwest Harbor Library offers a comfortable setting, variety of newspapers, and even free Wi-Fi.  And you don’t need to be a library cardholder to access the library’s three computers.  I can’t imagine abdicating on a visit to Southwest Harbor’s expanded hardware store, but I must admit that the library is an appealing alternative, especially on a rainy day.

 I’d like to thank my contributors Scott, Don, and Heather for this post.  If you have tips you’d like to share, you can contact me at info@ouracadia.com.  In the meantime, you can check out more of my favorite ways to explore, eat, and relax when visiting Acadia National Park at www.ouracadia.com.  Stay tuned for more tips from Bar Harbor!

Acadia’s Wildwood Stable Opens June 6, 2009 under New Management with New Tours

Published
by
admin
on June 14, 2009
in Uncategorized and travel
. 0 Comments

Things to do in Acadia National Park include biking, hiking, and kayaking.  My daughter would definitely put rock climbing on her list, and I think you have to eat at a nearby lobster pound. But one of the top-ranking activities among a very broad group of travelers is a carriage tour. 

Why?  Perhaps it’s because that’s the way the carriage roads of Acadia National Park were meant to be experienced.  These unique gravel byways were constructed by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. as a means to get deep into Mount Desert Island and to keep cars out.  Mr. Rockefeller, himself a skilled horseman, drove a carriage along these scenic roads that encircle mountains, pass over stone-faced bridges, and skirt meadows. 

Today some 20,000 visitors travel the same historic roads on tours offered by Wildwood Stables. 

This year tours will start June 6 and run to October 18.  They feature the horse-drawn “Acadia Sociable” wagonette which holds 12 to 16 people.  There are four different tours, available for one- or two-hour drives throughout the day.  Although they all book quickly, the most popular are the morning drive on Pemetic Mountain to “Cobblestone Bridge” and the sunset trip to Day Mountain.  Wildwood’s new manager, Mike Carpenter, is considering additional routes for 2009, including one that’s a circuit from Jordan Pond House, the scenic spot for lemonade and popovers. 

The “five-star” popularity of the carriage tours seems to result as much from the charm of the carriage drivers as the scenery.  Visitors rave about the information, history, and humorous anecdotes.  Scan TripAdvisor and you’ll see “I hated it to end” and “I would definitely do it again.” 

One reason to book again, even if you’ve enjoyed a carriage drive before, will be the new emphasis on the horses themselves.  Wildwood’s new manager hopes to have at least one representative of the six or seven major breeds of draft horses at the stable.  Having grown up with horses on a farm, he believes that giving visitors more interaction with the animal power – even letting them touch the horses – will enhance the experience of a visit to Wildwood. 

And if you’re planning a romantic vacation on Mount Desert Island, consider a special charter in a surrey or vis-a-vis “wedding carriage” like the ones in Central Park.  According to Mr. Carpenter, that’s one thing both newlyweds and couples celebrating anniversaries put on their lists of things to do in Acadia National Park. 

Want to include a carriage drive on your trip to Acadia National Park?  Visit Carriages of Acadia to find out more.  Reservations can be made by calling 1-877-276-3622.

10 Things to Do with Your Kids on a Rainy Day in Acadia National Park

Published
by
admin
on May 17, 2009
in Uncategorized and travel
. 1 Comment

“What if it rains?” is the question that haunts every mother planning a vacation that’s focused on biking, hiking, and the beach. 

 

Don’t worry.  Bar Harbor and the surrounding communities offer lots of good options to combat cabin fever if it rains.  Here are a few ideas, courtesy of Bar Harbor locals. 

 

Your kids are sure to love them as long as you don’t say the word “educational.”

 

1.      Learn about lobsters – Visit the lobster hatchery and museum at the Mount Desert Oceanarium. There are touch tanks and other hands-on exhibits, including phones for listening to the songs of whales.

 

2.      Take in a show - Acadia Repertory Theatre in picturesque Somesville does adaptations of children’s classics every year.  Last summer they performed “Snow White and Rose Red” every   Wednesday and Saturday morning…see what their 37th season holds!

 

3.      Play with LEGOS designed by MIT to see how DNA divides and mutates.  Plus, there are touch tanks and an aquarium at the Mount Desert Island Biological Laboratory, a renowned research institution, which welcomes children on Monday and Wednesday mornings.

 

4.      See a movie – Check out to see what’s playing at Reel Pizza in Bar Harbor where, in addition to theatre seats, there are couches and recliners and, in addition to popcorn and soda, delicious fresh-dough gourmet pizza. 

5.      Enjoy a story - Jesup Memorial Library in Bar Harbor has summertime story hours with special guests.  On the other side of the island, the Southwest Harbor Public Library also hosts story time for both toddlers and pre-schoolers, where older siblings are welcome.  Both get rave reviews from local parents.

6.     Visit the Bar Harbor Whale Museum – Unlike a lot of the other activities that are only open two days a week, this museum — dedicated to the whales and seals common to the Gulf of Maine — is open seven days a week.  Tell the kids they can walk underneath a real humpback whale skeleton.

7.     Take a family swim - MDI YMCA offers a family day pass for $16.  In addition to the pool, there’s a basketball court.  Check out the family swim times before you go.

8.     Go to college - Dorr Museum on the campus of College of the Atlantic has a touch-tank where kids can see starfish, sea cucumbers and various other sea life first hand.  There’s a gift shop, too, with a wonderful selection of books, gifts, toys and jewelry related to the natural sciences.

9.     Learn about Native Americans - Older children (6-15) with an interest in Native American heritage may enjoy visiting the Abbe Museum to learn about the Wabanaki Indians, Maine’s native people.  There are two locations, Sieur de Monts Spring in Acadia National Park and downtown Bar Harbor.

10.  Find a porch – With an old-fashioned board game and a few picture books, you can enjoy the sound of the rain.  This might just end up being the most relaxing point in your vacation.

 

For more ideas of great things to do with your kids – both rain and shine! – visit OUR ACADIA.  You’ll also find tips for restaurants, guides for kayaking and family rock climbing trips, ideas for what to pack, and a lot more.

 

 

The Maine Debate: Hard or Soft Shell Lobster?

Published
by
admin
on May 10, 2009
in Uncategorized
. 0 Comments

Every time I go to Acadia National Park to hike, bike, and kayak, my vacation itinerary includes a trip to a lobster pound.  OK, often two.  So here, after much research, is my point-of-view on the soft vs. hard shell lobster debate.

Here are the two sides.  Fans of soft shell lobsters claim they are sweeter and easier to eat because they can be cracked by hand.  Lovers of hard shells point to more meat and a firmer consistency.

Let’s draw on a little science about Homarus americanus.  Lobsters shed their shells (or molt) throughout their lives.  After they grow a new shell inside the old one, they drink a lot of water which expands their body size and infuses the new shell, causing it to expand and break the old one.  The new shell is softer.  While it hardens, there’s a layer of seawater that helps insulate the lobster’s body.

And, to me, that’s the insight.  The seawater acts as kind of a secret marinating agent to make the meat of the soft shell lobster undeniably sweeter.  It’s more tender and delectable.

So, if taste is your priority, order a soft shell.  But keep in mind two other considerations.  First, eating a soft shell lobster is a messier process.  When you crack it open, be prepared for the torrent of “marinating liquid” to spew forth! The other negative is a soft shell will have relatively less meat for the same poundage. Lower prices will compensate for this, but you must remember to order a larger size lobster.  My favorite lobster pound on Mount Desert Island recommends at least a quarter of a pound more.

You are not likely to get a soft shell lobster in a New York restaurant or delivered by mail because hard shells are more durable for shipping.  So, if you are on Mount Desert Island at the end of the summer, which is the molting season for that part of New England, the choice should be clear. A soft shell lobster is a seasonal treat of great sweetness if you’re lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time. 

 

 

 

Mount Desert Island in Maine is home not only to Acadia National Park, but to charming inns, wonderful antiquing, topnotch spas and great restaurants.  For some of my favorites, including several lobster pounds, visit OUR ACADIA.

 

 

 

Four Hikes in Acadia National Park You and Your Kids Will Love — Easy Terrain and Big Payoffs

Published
by
admin
on August 17, 2008
in Uncategorized
. 0 Comments

“How much longer?” is not what you want to hear as you take in your first refreshing breaths of spruce-scented air.  “Can we do this again tomorrow?” is more like it.  However, that’s a sentiment that, frankly, takes some planning.  In addition to your kids’ safety and fortitude, you also have to take into account how to keep them interested for sustained periods of walking.  Choosing the right hike for your family is often the most challenging part of the experience. 

 

I have surveyed online postings and hiking guidebooks to get recommendations for the most kid-friendly treks, then I hiked all of these trails myself.  In addition, I have the experience of a daughter who thought hiking was “boring” unless a hike offered special features or rewards.  If hiking with your kids is one of the things you want to do in Acadia National Park, I’m happy to offer up these four alternatives. 

 

Ship Harbor

Roundtrip Distance: 1.3 miles

Draw a map of a figure 8, tell your kids that’s the shape of this trail, and then ask them if they want to do the woods or harbor shoreline loop first.  Whatever the course, your outermost point is a scenic picnic spot where you can contemplate the wreck of a schooner that ran aground there in the early 1600s.  We loved the shoreline along Ship Harbor where we collected some beautiful sun-bleached shells. 

Bonus:  Nearby is Bass Harbor Lighthouse.  The kids will enjoy climbing on the rocks at its base with the headlight above and the pounding surf below.  Great photo opps.

 

South Bubble

Roundtrip Distance: Approximately 1.2 miles

You’ll encounter many families taking advantage of the terrain of this hike: it has some exciting elevation, yet the trail’s series of crib box surfaces make it much easier than hiking over rocks or roots.  The summit of South Bubble, at 768 feet, provides a dramatic vista southward over Jordan Pond.  Many families will be there with willing hands to take a great family shot for you.

Bonus:  Tell the kids they’ll have a chance to try and push over the famous Bubble Rock glacially transported to the top of South Bubble.

 

Jordan Pond

Total Distance:  3.2 miles

This longer hike will let you and your family walk all the way around scenic Jordan Pond.  Just about all of the circuit is close to the water, which can be 100 feet deep near the shoreline.  Although the terrain is flat, this hike engages my imagination because there are a bridge of flat stones, rock-to-rock hiking, a birch suspension foot-bridge, a section to tiptoe over extensive root systems, and bogwalks. 

Bonus:  At the end of your hike, pick blueberries below the tea lawn in front of Jordan Pond House.  Then have lemonade, popovers, and strawberry ice cream at the restaurant.  There’s a gift shop, too.

 

Flying Mountain

Total Loop:  1.5 miles

Of all of the hikes listed here, this one probably feels the most like a “real hike.”  It’s relatively short, but there is a bit of climbing and elevation at the beginning that’s fun for energetic kids.  The views of Somes Sound, Sargent Drive, and Norumbega and Sargent Mountains are stunning.  (And mom may be intrigued by the spacious homes and lawns across the sound in Northeast Harbor.)  The return back to the car is easy along a fire road, where you can collect some dried cedar branches for the kids to make into cedar pillows. 

Bonus: The hike’s midpoint is at Valley Cove. The rock beach there is a great spot for the kids to skip rocks and play.  You may even see a peregrine soaring above Valley Cove.

 

 

It’s smart to hike with a map.  I highly recommend you pick up one of the good topographic maps published by Map Adventures  in one of the local shops.  While you’re there, look for Tom St. Germain’s A Walk in the Park, now the most dog-eared volume on my Maine bookshelf.  It provides detailed route descriptions and maps of 59 different hikes and was the source for the walking distances here.  A pair of inexpensive binoculars from WalMart or Amazon is also a great investment. Don’t forget plenty of water and some snacks, and these walks may become a mainstay of your family vacations. 

 

After expending all of that energy, where are you going to eat?  Mount Desert Island offers everything from ice cream shops with delicious blueberry pie to great, casual wine bars that will welcome your kids.  There’s even a lobster pound that serves PB&J.  For more information, consult the restaurant reviews on OUR ACADIA.  If you’re renting, OUR ACADIA also lists local markets, including where to buy superb local crabmeat, local goatcheese, and organic vegetables.  Many of the local markets also have very good wine selections. 

 

What’s on the agenda for tomorrow?  A ride on a lobster boat?  What if it rains?  How about an oceanarium?  Click here for 22 great things to do with your kids in Acadia – one of which is to plan another hike!

Saving the Ales and Other Things To Do on a Rainy Day in Acadia National Park

Published
by
admin
on August 11, 2008
in travel
. 1 Comment

Children can have a great time with their parents even if it’s raining in Acadia National Park.  While this kind of weather rules out whale watching, there are touch tanks and an oceanarium, a movie house that serves pizza during the show, and welcoming libraries and picturesque bookstores with waterfront reading areas. Take a look at my recent post for more ideas on what to do with kids if it rains.

 

This post, however, is for adults.

 

A book and a nap are high on my list of activities for a rainy day.  Working with that as a theme, here are three options for things to do that surely will get you in a Gene Kelly kind of mood.

 

1. Taste some of Maine’s best micro-brews.  Bar Harbor Brewing offers tastings of its award-winning ales and stouts at its brewery and storefront, now conveniently located at 8 Mount Desert Street in downtown Bar Harbor.  The day we went Andre Lozano was offering very generous pours to compensate for the fact that their True Blue Blueberry Ale and Bar Harbor Peach Ale were not available.  They only produce 100 cases a week, so many of the brands are in short supply, and they only distribute within 100 miles of Bar Harbor, so this was a treat.  Another day we visited Atlantic Brewing Company in Town Hill, which is in a very pleasant setting and offers tables in a garden for sunny days. Also behind the farmhouse and right next to the brewery is the tiny Knox Road Grill, which really put us in the mood for pulled pork.  Instead, though, we enjoyed an extremely interesting tour of the brewery during which we had the opportunity to smell and taste barley roasted to various depths.  Then we tasted nine different ales and stouts, as well as two sodas.  That brought us to nap time!

 

2. Relax with a massage.  In fact, Bar Harbor offers world-class services that may well put you into a slumber.  They will certainly help soothe some of your sore muscles from hiking and paddling.  The Bar Harbor Inn beckons you to its spa through a trellis and into a separate building, with a wicker-furnished waiting room overlooking the lawn and Frenchmen’s Bay.  Have some fruit and water before moving to a candle-lit private room (or a couples’ room) for your treatment on a warm massage table – how perfect for a rainy afternoon!  My deep tissue massage was $105.  Another option, in a simpler setting that is appealing in its straightforwardness, is the Tree of Life Day Spa.  It is operated by the owners of the Acadia School of Massage, who also provide treatments themselves on occasion.  Although my therapist exclaimed “You have knots everywhere.  I honestly have never seen so many!” she was able to work many of them out and I was extremely satisfied with the massage, which cost $95

 

3. Find a new novel.  We headed off the beaten path down to Bass Harbor and Bernard to explore.  This is a great thing to do on a rainy day…or a sunny one if you want to avoid the crowds.  There are a few antique shops in Bernard, but the Old Red Store (129 Bernard Road) was the only one that was open.  It didn’t matter because I found a wonderful old watercolor of loggers loading cargo on to sailing ships for $36 framed, fabulous tote bags made of recycled sail cloth, and very nice stationery.  We then headed over to Port Side, the sister bookstore of Port In A Storm in Somesville, which is also located on the water in an historic building.  I lost myself reading the reviews and recommendations of the staff – a very friendly gesture of this entrepreneurship.  I bought something by Wallace Stegner I hadn’t read, as well as Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods.  We wrapped up the day with a great lobster dinner at Thurston’s before heading home to Somesville.

 

Of course, a perfectly good option is to just stay in, read, nap, and head out for an early dinner.  Mount Desert Island offers many great eateries from casual to elegant, from lobster pounds to tapas and wine bars.  For reviews of 12 great spots close to Acadia National Park, visit OUR ACADIA. 

 

Nimbus clouds today?  Let it pour!