Food and Dining

Why I Hope My Daughter Chooses Mount Desert Island in Maine for Her Wedding

Food and Dining, Photography, travel, Weddings No Responses »

May 182013

April showers bring May flowers, then June graduations and weddings. And, although my daughter graduates from college in June, she’s pretty far from a wedding (although she has been dating a great guy for three years).

I was the one who began thinking about weddings recently when my online browsing introduced me to Maine wedding photographer Brea McDonald. Her work would convince any couple to choose Mount Desert Island as the destination for their wedding!

During the last ten years destination weddings have skyrocketed like love on a starlit night. Today they represent one out of every four weddings. Says Laura Cave of The Knot, “Our families and our friends are so far flung throughout the country. It makes total sense that a bride and groom would want to choose a wedding site that’s beautiful for them and a lot of fun for their friends.”

Mount Desert Island fits those criteria. Brea McDonald, whose home base is York, Maine, has photographed weddings in Maine, New Hampshire, Nantucket, Cape Cod, and Boston. According to Brea, Mount Desert Island is a great location for a New England wedding because “it has it all — boating, fishing, hiking, shopping and, of course, eating.”

That’s particularly because Mount Desert Island is home to Acadia National Park, the first national park east of the Mississippi. Its granite-topped mountains, rocky coastline and glacial lakes attracted 2.4 million visitors last year. And these distinctive geographical features make a stunning setting for wedding vows, whether anchored by spruce or birch…

…or enclosing the couple in an autumnal tunnel of love.

Charming villages are located throughout Mount Desert Island. Their harbor-side classic inns and elegant gardens are the kind of venues brides dream about and cherish through their photographs for years to come.

One couple Brea photographed opted for the ceremony aboard a four-masted schooner and the reception in a harbor-side meadow.

Couples who have a bent toward the casual seem to gravitate toward Maine for their weddings. They may start with their topsiders on, but are likely to kick up (and off) their heels before long.

And they’re not afraid to be caught in a wedding photo tasting a lobster leg. In fact, that’s part of the instructions.

That brings us to food. Mount Desert Island is home to fishermen (including lobstermen) and farmers (including wonderful organic growers), so the culinary delights at a Maine wedding are great. What floats your boat – clams or oysters?

A lobster bake makes a memorable menu.

So, if my daughter gets engaged and asks me what I think about a wedding on Mount Desert Island, I’m going to say: “A beautiful setting? Check. Great food for the reception? Check. Fun for your friends? Check. Memorable? Check.”

And did I mention her boyfriend is graduating from Harvard Law in June?

Related Stories:

Brea McDonald Photography

The Knot’s Maine Wedding Albums

How to Cook Lobster and More – A Three-Day “Cooking Adventure” in Maine

Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Mar 312013

One evening when we were having dinner at Red Sky restaurant in Southwest Harbor, Maine, the Executive Chef James Lindquist came over to our table to describe the specials. The appetizer, he said, featured asparagus which was “in the ground this afternoon.”

James Lindquist

This focus on what’s local and fresh has been a driving force behind the success of Red Sky and James Lindquist, who was featured in Fresh from Maine, the 2010 cookbook of “recipes and stories from the state’s best chefs”. His vivid way of describing food and engaging the imagination of his diners is another reason the restaurant has received such acclaim from The New York Times, Travel and Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, and Down East Magazine, among others.

Now, for the first time, enthusiastic home cooks are going to be able to cook with James, learning his approach, getting unique recipes, and taking advantage of the ingredients of Maine, including lobster. On June 9-12 he will lead a three-day “Cooking Adventure,” limited to eight participants.

This cooking class will take place at Ann’s Point Inn on Mount Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park. It will include three nights lodging at the scenic harbor-side inn, as well as local trips to discover the sources of Maine’s coveted ingredients. Participants will prepare appetizer, entrée, and dessert courses for two dinners. In addition, the program includes a three-course dinner at Red Sky.

Ann’s Point Inn

This “Cooking Adventure” is the brainchild of Alan Feuer, a former Computer Science professor, who moved to Maine with his wife Jeannette to start a second career as innkeeper of Ann’s Point. Under their stewardship, the inn, which opened in 2005, has not only been certified an Environmental Leader by the Maine Department of Environmental Protection, but also selected as a Yankee Magazine Editor’s Choice in 2012 for “Best Acadian Escape.”

Says Alan Feuer, “For many guests at the inn, eating well-prepared food is as important as the breathtaking scenery and exhilarating physical activity Acadia offers.” The Feuers updated their inn’s open kitchen in 2012 giving it plentiful work space and a direct water view. He adds, “Kitchens are magical places. They turn raw material into delicious food, and strangers into friends.”

In addition to lodging, two dinners prepared by the class, and a dinner at Red Sky, the “Cooking Adventure” package includes three full breakfasts at Ann’s Point Inn. These feature freshly baked pastries, fresh fruit, and a main course that alternates between the sweet and savory. James Lindquist says, “Jeannette Feuer is an accomplished breakfast chef in her own right!”

The eight people who participate in the first “Cooking Adventure” collaboration will take home recipes of the two dinners they prepared together and a signed copy of Fresh from Maine. Cost for the package is $1750 for two people. For more information, call 207-244-9595 or email info@annspoint.com.

Second Life as an Innkeeper in Maine

17 Great Ways to Experience Acadia National Park in Maine

Food and Dining, travel, Uncategorized 2 Responses »

Mar 242013

Thinking of visiting Acadia National Park this summer? It’s the star attraction of Mount Desert Island, an island about the same size as Martha’s Vineyard, but with 24 mountain peaks. That alone expands the roster of great things to do there.

Acadia became a national park in 1919, but the first village on Mount Desert Island was founded in 1761. Today Acadia’s boundaries are intermingled with the charming, postcard-perfect villages of this New England island, adding even more activities to engage park visitors.

So, what activities should you plan to include in your visit? Here are some favorite things to do both in and around the park.

1. Watch the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain. At some 1500 feet, Cadillac Mountain is the first place from which to witness dawn in the United States, and it is breathtaking. Make sure you wear a warm fleece even if it’s August.

2. Drive the Park Loop Road. You can get your best overview of Acadia by driving these 27 miles of unsurpassed beauty, created in part through the masterful collaboration of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr. There are many lookouts so have your camera ready.

3. Eat lobster. Whether you want a lobster roll, lobster stew, or a two-pounder steamed, you can find a wide range of topnotch restaurants, harbor side lobster pounds, and quaint cafes to serve you. Our favorite is Thurston’s in Bass Harbor.

4. Go biking. Thanks to John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Acadia offers 45 miles of car-free carriage roads that will lead you around mountains, alongside lakes, and into serene boreal forests. Visit Hull’s Cove Visitor Center first, just outside of downtown Bar Harbor, where there is plentiful parking and good advice about the best bike routes for you and your family. I love their 3D map.

5. Stroll, hike, or climb. The park boasts 125 miles of well-maintained hiking trails that appeal to all levels of fitness. The most exciting trails, such as the Precipice and Jordan Cliffs, feature rungs and ladders. A beautiful, moderately challenging hike is Acadia Mountain, overlooking Somes Sound, the only fiord in North America. If you’re looking for easier strolls, consider Asticou Trail and Wonderland – they’re lovely.

6. Have popovers at Jordan Pond House. Select a biking or hiking route that stems from behind Jordan Pond House so that you can conclude your afternoon with lemonade or tea – and, most certainly, popovers — on the lawn looking towards the Bubbles, a sight that has mesmerized visitors at teatime since 1896. It’s a favorite destination for everyone, but worth the wait. What about popovers filled with blueberry ice cream?

7. Go to the beach. Sand Beach is a stunning crescent of white sand, with cliffs at each side and the Beehive Trail behind it. The views won’t disappoint, even if the chilly water does. Another option for a swim is the beach at Echo Lake on the island’s “Quietside.”

8. Visit a lighthouse. Maine has over 60 lighthouses, and one of its most beautiful is on Mount Desert Island in Bass Harbor. It’s a great spot for photographers. Afterwards, visit the working harbor busy with lobster and sail boats.

9. Take a horse-drawn carriage ride. Carriages of Acadia offers a number of picturesque drives within Acadia National Park, starting at Wildwood Stables and encompassing destinations including Day Mountain and Jordan Pond. Another option is to enjoy a tour of downtown Bar Harbor with Wild Iris Horse Farm.

10. Learn from a park ranger. The National Park Service offers very entertaining talks and walks on subjects ranging tidal pools to birds of prey to the stars over Sand Beach. Scan The Beaver Log to figure out how you can fit in more than one.

11. Touch nature – literally. There are several enterprises, including Mount Desert Biological Laboratories, The Dive-In Theatre, and the Mount Desert Oceanarium, that feature touch tanks full of lobsters, crabs, and sea cucumbers. I always end up liking this stuff just as much as the kids do.

12. Visit the local wineries and micro-breweries. On Mount Desert Island you can enjoy free tours and tastings of two award-winning micro-breweries, Bar Harbor Brewing Company and Atlantic Brewing Company. Venture off the island to discover the acclaimed fruit vintages of Bartlett Winery.

13. Get out on the water. This great national park is on an island so you must see it from the vantage point of the sea. Whether you’re powering yourself in a sea kayak or the wind is propelling you on a Downeast Friendship Sloop or the Margaret Todd, being on the water is a special part of a trip to Acadia National Park.

14. Experience farm to table cuisine. Maine is known not only for its great fishermen, but also its farmers. And nowhere in Maine has the renaissance of local and organic ingredients been as great as on Mount Desert Island. A long list of top restaurants, including Burning Tree, Fathom, Red Sky, and Town Hill Bistro, awaits the discerning diner. Make reservations!

15. Take an art class. If you’ve ever pictured yourself sketching or learning watercolors in an idyllic seaside location, make that fantasy a reality. Among the many wonderful artists on Mount Desert Island is Judy Taylor, who offers workshops that include cruises to some of the most picturesque islands surrounding Mount Desert Island.

16. Relax at a spa. Bar Harbor is home to a number of spas that run the gamut from sophisticated to funky. If your idea of a great vacation is a day of outdoor activities topped off by a soothing massage, then you’ll find a vacation to Acadia perfect from the pine-scented trails to the aromas of the spa.

17. Experience the “Way Life Should Be.” That Maine slogan is your personal invitation to church suppers, local parades, blueberry festivals, farmers’ markets, crafts fairs, and terrific libraries. If you pull off the road and depart from your schedule, you’ll be amply rewarded. After all, those practical folks who invented ear muffs in 1873 just named Whoopie Pies as their “State Treat.”

Where to Stay on a Trip to Acadia National Park: A Profile of Mount Desert Island’s Villages

Why Visit Acadia National Park in the Fall

Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Nov 032012

When Fred told his son Josh that we were going to Acadia in October to see the foliage, the 27-year-old wisecracked, “Why don’t you just go to Central Park?”

The horror of turning into middle-aged leaf peepers flashed in my mind.

Ironically, one of the best reasons to go to Maine in the fall is to be very active outdoors. With visitors to the national park at half of what they are in August, the carriage roads and trails are less populated. That means easier access to the most popular biking and hiking spots such as Eagle Lake and Cadillac Mountain, Mount Desert Island’s highest point. The rock climbing companies are still open. And the weather is terrific for being outdoors.

So, as we approached our autumn visit to Acadia, now an annual ritual, our plans were very much set. We know what to do in August and what to hold until October to make the most of the seasons and avoid any crowds.

During previous fall trips, we had hiked Cadillac’s West Face (a favorite) and the North Ridge, but we had only done the northernmost parts of the South Ridge in conjunction with other hikes, the previously noted West Face, as well as Canon Brook Trail, another fall favorite. This year we hiked the entire 7.4-mile South Ridge Trail, up to and back from the 1,530-foot summit, in four hours. We stopped very little, just to eat an apple at the summit and take this photo of the glacial cirque known as the Featherbed.

This year autumn rainfall gave us gushing brooks, topped-off lakes, and lots of active waterfalls. We hiked along Little Harbor Brook, for example, where there were frequent crossings along stepping stones, something that holds endless charm for me. I don’t know why.A highlight of the Little Harbor Brook Trail was reaching Amphitheatre Bridge, where we enjoyed a very pretty waterfall.

Another day we made our own hike/bike tour. After dropping our bikes off at Jordan Pond House, we parked on Route 3 near Hunters Brook. We hiked north along this lovely brook, then headed west over The Triad where we picked up the Ponds Path to emerge here on Jordan Pond.

We had lunch at Jordan Pond House where we witnessed – but did not partake of! – such spectacular desserts as popovers filled with ice cream.

After lunch we got on our bikes and pedaled back on the carriage roads to Signpost 36. There was only a short expanse of about .2 mile where we had to walk – and carry – our bikes on a trail through the woods.

Although it was close to dusk, we locked up our bikes and hiked another mile to Hunters Cliffs, where we marveled at Maine’s rocky coastline.

When you pack so much into each day, there’s not much tension left in your body as evening approaches. What’s left quickly dissipates with a glass of a favorite libation – I am happy to promote my recent discovery of Shipyard Pumpkin Ale — at one of Mount Desert Island’s great restaurants. This year outstanding fall fare on MDI ranged from lobster pot pie at Fiddler’s Green in Southwest Harbor to an Autumn Sweater Salad (mixed greens with sliced apple, garlic marinated feta, herbs, and balsamic vinaigrette) at Lompoc Café in Bar Harbor to risotto with butternut squash at Sips in Southwest Harbor.

Near the very end of our fall vacation in Maine, we went for an easy walk along a path called Murphy’s Lane, in the shadow of the Precipice. Actually, there was no shadow that day because it was raining lightly. Despite the precipitation, I was lighthearted as we strolled through birch groves and among rain-kissed leaves and grasses.

We reached Bliss Field over which Champlain Mountain and the Precipice Trail rise, but the mist obscured their magnificence today. I didn’t care. I was blissful.

Josh was right. I could have seen leaves like these in Central Park…if I had been open to them. Instead I needed to follow John Muir’s instructions to get to that special place:

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”

If You Want to Hike Cadillac and Champlain Mountains in Acadia National Park, Go in the Fall

Acadia Photo Workshop – Seeing Maine’s Fall Landscape Through An Expert’s Eyes

Attention, Foodies: Take a Detour to Bartlett Winery When You Visit Acadia National Park in Maine

Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Oct 212012

As the sun softened over Bass Harbor, the guests at Ann’s Point Inn leaned forward to listen to the innkeeper introduce the two Bartlett wines, a semi-dry peach and a semi-dry pear, he was pouring that afternoon. We took another nibble of Seal Cove goat cheese, then tasted. Wine made from peaches and pears, not grapes? It was delicious.

“I like featuring Bartlett because my guests appreciate trying wine only available in Maine,” says Alan Feuer, a computer sciences professor turned innkeeper. “And I like supporting local businesses making high-quality products.”

These wines are the fruits of the labor of award-winning winemaker Bob Bartlett, who founded Bartlett Maine Estate Winery in 1982. It was Maine’s first winery. Bob, in fact, had to write the legislation himself to get the license for the tasting room. Today he and his wife Kathe produce 6,000 to 7,000 cases a year, depending on the availability of fruit.After first tasting Bartlett wines at Ann’s Point, I spied the bottles with the labels that look like botanical art at wine stores and markets around Mount Desert Island. I was curious about the winery in nearby Gouldsboro and wanted to taste more. This cloudy October afternoon seemed just right to take a break from hiking in Acadia and go on a field trip. What we learned was not only about wine, but also about a couple who three decades ago foreshadowed today’s local and artisanal food movements.

The drive east from our house in Somesville on Mount Desert Island would have taken about 45 minutes along Route 1, but we decided to explore the Schoodic Peninsula, stopping in Winter Harbor for some clam chowder and a lobster roll. This part of Maine – with its white-steeple churches, harbors full of lobster boats, and quiet villages – make a town like Bar Harbor look positively bustling. It was easy to find the winery at 175 Chicken Mill Pond Road, also known as Old Route 1 Bypass.

It’s not surprising that the driveway into the quiet wooded setting of the winery is marked by an oversized granite sculpture. Bob Bartlett came to Maine in 1975 as a trained architect and glass artist.Although Kathe has two employees managing tastings in the summer, we were fortunate to have her as our host today. Friendly and articulate, she selected for our testing, which was free, seven of the 18 wines and two honey-meads they produce. Ranging from dry to sweet, the wines are made from apples, pears, peaches, raspberries, blackberries, loganberries, and of course blueberries – and combinations thereof. The fruit is brought to the Bartletts as fresh whole fruit – ninety percent of which is from Maine and “always from someone we know.”

The fruit is the key here. “That’s what I get most excited about…when the fruit comes in,” says Kathe. “It is so luscious.”

Bartlett wines are made totally with fruit, with no concentrates or flavorings. High-quality honey and great fruit that is clean (to minimize the risk of bacteria) are necessary for their wine and mead, and limit how much can be produced. Sourcing honey, for example, can be a real challenge, Kathe says, adding that honey from New Zealand might really be from China.

Fruit also played a major role in the history of the winery. Seminal to Bob’s idea of producing wine in Maine was using Maine fruit and thus promoting Maine agriculture. He even wrote it into the legislation.

At this point in the tasting we had moved to the wines made from blueberries, and I was trying to decide whether I preferred the medium-dry Coastal Red, a blend of local Maine apples and wild blueberries, or the oakier, barrel-aged Dry American, which Kathe says pairs with lamb, venison, and turkey and goes particularly well with rosemary, thyme, and sage seasonings – “perfect for Thanksgiving.”

At that moment a man arrayed in rain gear and totally drenched passed by the door leading from the tasting room into the winery. It was Bob. He looked like a very wet lobsterman, not the “dean” or “godfather” of the Maine wine industry, as he’s frequently called. “What I do to make wine for you people,” he said happily, and then moved on. He’d been cleaning the inside of vats. The cleanliness of the equipment is obviously as important to him as the purity of the fruit.It’s a big job for two people to run a venture of this size and caliber. Says Kathe, “The longest we’ve ever been away is three weeks.” The tasting room at the winery is open June until Columbus Day, Tuesday through Saturday, from 11am to 5pm.

Kathe and Bob seem anything but tired or complacent, however. One of their newest ventures is the Spirits of Maine Distillery, which is also gaining recognition in international awards competitions. American Apple Brandy and Pear Eau de Vie are two of the stand-outs.

Suddenly, we noticed it was after 4:30, and we found ourselves in a rush as Kathe packed a case of wine for us that included the Coastal White, Peach Semi-Dry, and both of the blueberry wines between which I had been trying to decide. Before it closed at 5pm, we wanted to get to the Sullivan Harbor Farm Smokehouse – “the hottest little smokehouse in Maine” that gets raves of “delectable” from The Boston Globe and “highly recommended” from The New York Times. Kathe picked up the phone and asked if they would wait for us for five minutes. They did, and we left very happy with smoked salmon bacon brushed with maple syrup and the best smoked salmon pâté I have ever had. (Sorry, Zabar’s.)

Maine has always been the land of farmers and fishermen. But, as the Bartlett Winery and Sullivan Harbor Farm prove, it is increasingly the home of culinary artisans who are adding true craftsmen’s value to what’s offered by the great state of Maine.

Next time I won’t wait for a cloudy day to visit. I’ll bike the Schoodic Peninsula, then head over to Bartlett’s.

Best Bar Harbor Breakfasts: Come This Way to Café This Way

Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Oct 102012

Bar Harbor breakfast-goers fall into several categories. The Fuel-Seekers, who want a hearty breakfast before they hit the trail in Acadia. The Lingerers, who want to enjoy their vacation relaxing over breakfast, perhaps with a newspaper. And, of course, the Foodies, who believe that the first meal of the day offers tantalizing taste options.

All three groups designate Café This Way as worthy of “Destination Breakfast” status.

But, first, let’s make sure we can get you there. Café This Way’s address is listed as 14 Mount Desert Street in Bar Harbor. Mount Desert Street, which intersects with Main Street, is one of the primary streets leading into Bar Harbor. Café This Way, however, is located on a flag lot just a few steps off of Mount Desert Street. A sign marks the way…café this way. You might also be lucky enough to find a parking spot if you drive this way.

The vine-covered cottage, which features dining on a porch for about eight tables, has a burgundy interior with colorful paintings throughout. This color is accentuated by two dramatic yellow crescents on the ceiling, a signal that, although the food is serious here, no one seems to take themselves too seriously.

In the same vein, the wait staff here is both very professional and friendly at the same time. You get the sense that in Bar Harbor breakfast is a very competitive business, and the “best of the best” in wait staff work hard to give their establishment the edge.

Starting at 7am on Monday through Saturday, Café This Way’s staff is there to efficiently serve the Fuel-Seekers pancakes (including blueberry, of course), French toast, granola, oatmeal or perhaps the Country Breakfast – two eggs, two pancakes, ham, home fries, and toast.

The Lingerers, who might want to borrow one of the seriously good reads from the many bookcases throughout Café This Way, can have their Bagel Plate with either smoked salmon or smoked trout, a great alternative. By the way, one of my favorite omelets at Café This Way features smoked trout, red onions, fresh basil, tomatoes, and parmesan. There are seven other omelets on the menu to peruse and, if none of those inspires, contemplate creating your own. That’s an option, too.

Café This Way also serves dinner every night from 5:30 to 9:30, and that fact alone should excite the Foodies. Believe me when I say that Kit’s Burrito – a tortilla filled scrambled eggs, peppers, onions, cheddar, and sausage and topped with salsa, sour cream, and guacamole – is delicious because it has such fresh, flavorful ingredients.

Creativity also appeals to the Foodies, and this is where the Café This Way is also sure to please. Take the Café Monte Cristo, for example. It’s a French toast sandwich filled with a fried egg, ham, and cheddar. Smother it in maple syrup.

Neither the Fuel-Seekers nor the Lingerers nor the Foodies want a watery cup of coffee. Everyone endorses the robust flavor of Café This Way’s blend roasted by Carpe Diem.

That brings me to the subject of beverages. Café This Way has everything from juice by Fresh Samantha to Ghirardelli Hot Chocolate to Iced Chai. In fact, they have something that other top Bar Harbor breakfast spots do not, and that is a liquor license.

For the Brunch-Goer, what is breakfast without a Bloody Mary or a Mimosa? Café This Way offers them by the glass or the pitcher. Their Mimosas can be made with either orange or pomegranate juices or both, which I highly recommend.

Vacationers from around the world converge on Mount Desert Island to enjoy Acadia National Park, where the mountains meet the sea. And, from mid-April through October, at Café This Way they’ll find dining where heartiness, comfort, and flavor come together for a breakfast that’s worthy of the destination.

Best Bar Harbor Breakfasts: 2 Cats Cafe

Vegetarians and Carnivores: Happy Together at Eden in Bar Harbor?

Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Oct 012012

I was about to have dinner at Eden, the vegan restaurant in Bar Harbor, with a carnivore, known for his New York brand of sarcasm, and a life-long vegetarian, ornery from being house-bound as she studied for the MCAT.

Why I put myself in this position I do not know. After all, the Meat Eater had foreshadowed potential tension earlier in the day when he noted, “Rupert Murdoch said dining at Steve Jobs’ vegetarian household was an exceptional experience – as long as you left before the local restaurants closed.”

Why hadn’t I steered us to Town Hill Bistro, for example, which always features a creative, flavorful dish for the Vegetarian?

Well, it was actually the proprietors at Town Hill who had introduced me to Eden, which has been serving seasonal vegan cuisine since 2003. Originally located on West Street, Eden moved in 2011 to their new home at 321 Main Street, just across from Havana.

This new setting suits them. On the quiet side of town, it’s a 100-year-old farm-style house, in which the rooms have been reconfigured into bright, convivial dining spaces. Shades of green, turquoise, and peach lift the mood, as does the spirit of the host/owner Lynn Rampacek, who will speak glowingly about the talents of her chef/husband Mark. The Rampaceks have been pioneers not only in adopting robust global flavors, but partnering with local growers to capitalize on seasonal produce. Their menu lists partnerships with some eight different farms, gardens, and cooperatives who “make dinner at Eden possible.”

Our dinner started off well with a list of creative specialty cocktails. Even here what’s local rules. We all loved the Ruralpolitan, a Down East take on the Cosmopolitan featuring local, organic cranberry juice, maple syrup, Cointreau, lime, and Maine’s own Cold River vodka.

But appetizers were more challenging – because there were so many great choices! I wanted both the ruby watermelon gazpacho and porcini mushroom and tomato tartlet, but I opted for the Chesapeake-style vegetable cakes with sweet and sour slaw. Are you surprised the Meat Eater chose the beer-battered pickled jalapenos and onion rings? The Vegetarian selected vegetable-stuffed tofu pockets with a spicy pickled ginger dipping sauce.

For an entrée, the Meat Eater debated between Penne Pesto tossed with arugula, local pole beans and sundried tomatoes and the Thai summer noodles with a spicy coconut, lime, and lemongrass curry. Despite the tofu thrown in for some good protein, he opted for the latter! The Vegetarian chose almond and panko crusted soy seitan cutlets with a chilled potato and leek salad. I had tempeh roasted with garlic, herbs, and balsamic vinegar, with lentil salad and local greens.

Doesn’t this sound delicious?

And life is full of surprises. The Meat Eater liked the tofu pockets the best, and the Vegetarian voted the Thai Summer Noodles #1. They shared.

As an adventuresome eater, I myself realized that Eden’s intriguing flavors had seduced me into trying pseudo meat products. Seitan is a vegetarian mock meat made from wheat. Tempeh, served as a compressed patty, is made from cooked and slightly fermented soybeans. For me, the texture of both the tempeh and seitan detracted from the culinary heights Eden otherwise achieves. Since what’s on my plate lately has become less protein- preoccupied, I shouldn’t have succumbed to the temptation of this traditional structure – here of all places!

So, non-vegetarians, take note. If you’re in the mood for pasta, tangines, and other less traditionally structured dishes and you’re in search of fabulous flavor, seek entrance back to Eden and call for a reservation. You need not be accompanied by a vegetarian.

Delight awaits.

Best Bar Harbor Breakfasts: Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast

Best Bar Harbor Breakfasts: 2 Cats Cafe

Mount Desert Island’s Most Scenic Lobster Pound? It’s Unanimous.

Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Aug 112012

Abel’s gets everyone’s vote for “lobster pound in the best setting.” The large, open dining room provides postcard-perfect views of Somes Sound while you eat nestled in knotty pine.

Or you can sit outside at picnic tables in the spruce grove lit by torchieres, with the fragrance of the wood fires boiling the lobsters in the nearby shed.

The staff runs – literally – back and forth between the dining room and this shed where the lobsters are also stored.

At Abel’s you don’t choose your lobster, but simply specify your size preference, but this curious reporter had a chance to get up close and personal.

The setting is the first thing that differentiates Abel’s among lobster pounds. The second is the range of their lobster preparations. For example, you can start your dinner with lobster stew or a lobster cocktail appetizer, although we generally prefer their steamed clams.

Lobster dinners, offered in the small, medium, or large sizes of the lobsters (plus twins), come with homemade rolls and baked potato or French fries. But Abel’s presents many alternatives to the traditional boiled lobster dinner. You can have your lobster in a salad, in fact, in a Caesar salad. Or opt for lobster sauté, lobster Newburg, or lobster Alfredo. If there are any visitors who don’t savor Maine’s iconic crustacean, Abel’s menu also includes prime rib, rib-eye steak, and grilled chicken breast.

At most of Mount Desert Island’s lobster pounds, you stand in line to order your lobster. Waitress service is the third thing that differentiates Abel’s. It’s fast and friendly, reflecting the fact that Abel’s has been in business since 1939. After all, the proprietor started working there at eight-years-old.

Looking for the best places to eat during a trip to Acadia National Park? Check out the restaurant reviews at OUR ACADIA, which include everything from tips on other lobster pounds to the best breakfasts in bar harbor to where to dine with kids.

Where to Eat – and Drink – After a Day of Hiking in Acadia National Park

The Maine Debate: Hard or Soft Shell Lobster?

Best Bar Harbor Breakfasts: Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast

Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Jul 282012

The standards for a great breakfast in Maine are high, hearkening back to the logging camps.

Lumbermen would refuse to work if they didn’t like the food. The output of the cooks, whose reputations grew among workers in the Maine woods, was as much a factor as pay in selecting where to work.

Camp cook culinary renown grew with mastery of breads, pastries, pie, and, of course, baked beans – which hearken back even further to Maine’s Native Americans, the Wabanaki, who prepared them with maple syrup and bits of venison or other meat.

That tradition is alive and well today at Jeannie’s at 15 Cottage Street in Bar Harbor, which serves The Great Maine Breakfast.

It’s hard to resist the namesake breakfast on your first visit. The delicious homemade baked beans come with three eggs, grilled ham, home fries, toast, and a buttermilk pancake.

Of course, if your preference goes more toward black beans, you might opt for the three-egg Spanish omelet with provolone cheese. Topped with a very fresh and spicy salsa, it’s also served with home fries and homemade toast.

No Bar Harbor breakfast spot is popular – and, believe me, Jeannie’s is – if it doesn’t offer some version of eggs with lobster. Jeannie’s lobster specialty is an omelet filled with that iconic crustacean and topped with a creamy Mornay cheese sauce.

If you have a sweet tooth, you won’t be disappointed. You can choose from blueberry pancakes or French toast stuffed with cream cheese and jam. Jeannie’s is also known for its strawberry rhubarb fruit spread, which is packaged with pancake mixes, as a great gift to take to those who had to stay home.

Vegans can relax with vegan oatmeal and walnut pancakes topped with a warm, savory homemade applesauce. If you’re a vegetarian who loves tofu, as my daughter does, go for the scrambled eggs with spiced tofu, peppers, and onions. It’s also topped with that deliciously fresh homemade salsa.

There’s nothing fancy about Jeannie’s, which doesn’t take reservations. But friendly and fast service will get you out early, as well fueled as any Maine woodsman, to tackle your hiking trail or carriage road in Acadia National Park.

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Food and Dining, travel No Responses »

Jul 122012

Two Cats Cafe and Inn in Bar Harbor

Why does Bar Harbor have some of the best breakfasts anywhere?

Maybe it’s because they know you’ll work them off hiking in Acadia. Perhaps it’s because a big farmer’s breakfast is a Yankee tradition.

Regardless, you’ve been eating cereal all year, so it’s time to indulge in a great breakfast during your vacation to Maine.

Bar Harbor has several restaurants that qualify as offering “destination breakfasts.” Most are casual. Some spots specialize in breakfast only – consistently big, not necessarily traditional. Others take the creative flavors of dinner to the day’s first meal. And it should be no surprise that Maine’s best-known ingredient – lobster – is prominently featured in many dishes.

Take 2 Cats at 130 Cottage Street, for example. The day we were there two of the specials featured lobster. One was the Lobster Omelet with smoked Gouda cheese and scallions, served with spicy home fries and a biscuit with strawberry butter. The other, which my husband chose, was their Lobster Benedict with homemade hollandaise.

Lobster Benedict -- A Special at Two Cats Cafe, Bar Harbor

But I’ll warn you. At 2 Cats it’s not easy to decide what you want for breakfast. The menu features many options for scrambled eggs, omelets, Eggs Benedict, granola, and smoothies. And lobster-loaded concoctions aren’t the only specials. Consider a Portobello mushroom, bacon, and Swiss cheese omelet or apple cinnamon pancakes, for example.

Scrambled Eggs with Spicy Sausage and a Biscuit

Breakfast at 2 Cats is served Monday through Sunday, from 7am to 1pm. Happy diners (happier if they didn’t have to wait long) congregate on the porch, as well as in the cozy, brightly painted dining rooms of a big old yellow house, which is also an inn.

Cozy and Funky - Dining Room at Two Cats Cafe

Need more convincing? The rich Equal Exchange coffee and friendly service get rave reviews. Just don’t set your heart on a Bloody Mary – there’s no alcohol. Console yourself with the WiFi.

Recommendation: Follow the Paw Print to Two Cats Cafe

Get more ideas for the best places to eat on Mount Desert Island by visiting OUR ACADIA.

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